woensdag 24 april 2013

Theatrical Encounters: '[un]folding space' by Juliette Bogers

Juliette Bogers, born in Roosendaal, a little town in the south of the Netherlands near the border of Belgium. Growing up close to a border made me become curious to know what´s behind. Different cultures, different perspectives and different point of views offer an inspirational knowledge of world we are living in. When exploring the boundaries of the field of fashion to search my place in it, I feel the same urge to know what´s behind and by what it’s inspired. By working with different disciplines within the same period of time, new perspectives broaden and inspire my view on the field. Photography and choreography are two disciplines that are close to me; the first one looks at the world from another perspective and the second one explores your place and space in it. I love to work and design with the moulage method; the fabric leads the design around the body until the most ultimate form is found.

Q&A with Juliette Bogers

Where are you based? Still crossing borders; a split life between my atelier in Antwerp and my love in Utrecht.

What is it like to be a young designer in your city/country? Enjoying the fragments that inspire both thought and result while trying hard to leave an impressive and inspirational mark in that same habitat. What you give is what you receive.

What inspires you in general? The apparent simplicity of everyday life.

What place/city do you find inspiring? All places where coincidence finds its way to inspire you in its unconsciousness state of being. Making you conscious of being alive, to feel, to think, to create and to look for an answer while there might be no question.

What is the concept behind your latest collection? (UN)FOLDING SPACE is inspired by a text of Immanual Kant: 'In the senses there is no judgment whatsoever, neither a true nor a false judgment. Now since we have no source of knowledge besides these two, it follows that error is brought about solely by the unobserved influence of sensibility on the understanding, through which it happens that the subjective grounds of the judgment enter into union with the objective grounds and make these latter deviate from their true function. Just as a body in motion would always of itself continue in a straight line in the same direction, but if influenced by another force acting in another direction starts off into curvilinear motion'.

Describe your collection in three words: Feminine, minimal though detailed, elegant in its comfortable look.

Did you always wanted to work in the field of fashion? The outcome of my work lies in the field of fashion though this field is and has been broader to me than just fashion; I love looking through the lens of a photo camera to look at the world in lines (seams) and structures (forms) and exploring the female body by its choreography. I have always searched for ways to broaden my view and to be inspired by other disciplines in the same field of time.
Do you have a muse? If yes, who is it and why?

I don´t have a muse in particular; my creations are meant and designed with the concept and the wearer in mind. This wearer feels the comfortableness given by the fabric and the design to live and create her life without being bothered by her clothing. Her expression is my best compliment to keep in mind.

Who is your favorite fashion designer?
I can enjoy the feminine touch of Vanessa Bruno and Veronique Branquinho, I can admire the clean and ´simple´ snit of Stephan Schneider and I can be inspired by the different ways of working in moulage techniques of Tim van Steenbergen.
What is so far your greatest experience in your 'fashion' career?
Most recently being the finalist to design new dress for singer An Pierlé and to design the costume for choreographer Petra Zanki in her new piece. Every step might seem to be quite small but finally ends up in one big experience of exploring and evolving.

What is on your music list while you are making your collection? 
Feist, Ane Brun, An Pierlé, nice women with nice voices and a nice beat-guitar treat 

What made you smile today? 
The sun that created new forms on existing architectures, by reflecting the shadows of the city.
What is the latest thing you bought for yourself? 
The book 'IN AND OUT OF FASHION' by photographer Viviane Sassen 

How did you feel at the moment when you were awarded No.1 ELLE contest ‘designing An Pierlé’s stage outfit’? 
Actually I felt that this was somehow meant to be. Once I knew about this competition, I immediately had a design in mind. I listen to her music since a long time and thinking of a design was therefore an easy step: I just followed my feeling. Besides I felt the urge to participate because this was a good opportunity to show my way of working. And finally even being recognised for it was an enormous compliment. 

What did the exposure on Flemish ELLE magazine mean to your fashion career when 3-page photo-shoots of your work were published and shown to audience? 
I think things are always evolving; from one thing comes the next that leads to this and that etc. And all of a sudden it ends up in not knowing were it all started exactly. So to say, the exposure itself did not cause that much but more to say the outcomes were surprisingly in different, even unexpected ways. Where, what and when, I cannot point out exactly at this moment. But the knowledge of things that are evolving, maybe right now at this moment, gives you a sudden feeling of being at the top of the biggest mountain and it was more then worth the hike. You know that eyes are on you, that your work is being recognized and it might finally lead you to new ones. 

Can you describe a bit connections among fashion design, photography and modern dance? By looking through a lens, the world becomes figured out in lines and forms. This way of looking at these details, makes you think of different lines and forms in other ways. Transforming these thoughts into concrete designs can lead to a shape of a dress or a seam of a sleeve. These details abstract the details that caught your eye while looking through a lens. Modern dance crosses the border of looking at a body and the space around it in a different way as well. Thinking of time and space and ´using´ the body to show these thoughts, while fashion design uses the same body and its layer of fabric to translate the same thoughts. 

As you did a unique performance with dancers in ‘FASHIONCLASH Maastricht 2012' event, how was the experience at that time? 
An experience that made me feel enjoying what I do and with whom I´m working in a project. Creating energy that can convince the audience for a different approach to the field of fashion. Actually, since this performance of last year, I started to work with Marta (performer) more often, resulting in the performance this year. 

How did these interdisciplinary projects influence your design? 
The influence lies in the adjustment of my design to the other discipline while keeping in mind my way of working. For example, if one particular part of the body is highlighted by the choreography, the design needs to follow this movement. It forces and inspires me to think of a different approach of my design without losing my own thoughts of what I want to highlight of a body. 

Did you get any struggles while doing collaborations with the dancers or seeing the work by other designers, artists or performers? 
Yes, of course! Without struggles and imperfections there is no collaboration! They need to be there to keep the focus in order to create something that shares the ambition to become the most perfect work. 

Website: www.juliettebogers.com 
Photographer: juliette bogers 
Models: juliette bogers

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