zondag 31 mei 2015

Onfatsoenlijk

Bestand: Fietskostuum Museum Rotterdam
Verwijzing: 2-deling fietskostuum, ca. 1900, Museum Rotterdam
Onfatsoenlijk

door: Sjouk Hoitsma, conservator mode en kostuum Museum Rotterdam 

Het einde van de negentiende eeuw en het begin van de twintigste is een spannende tijd voor de vrouwengarderobe. In die periode komen er veel mannelijke elementen in de vrouwenkleding die we tot op de dag van vandaag herkennen. Terwijl de fatsoensnormen voorschreven dat vrouwen zo vrouwelijk mogelijk gekleed moesten gaan met strak ingesnoerde tailles en rokken tot op de grond was dit ook de tijd waarin vrouwen een steeds actievere rol in de samenleving gingen innemen. Vrouwen gingen deelnemen aan sportieve activiteiten als wandelen, bergbeklimmen, fietsen, en andere sporten. Ze trokken er op uit en maakten reizen. Jonge vrouwen gingen al vaker op zoek naar een baan, administratief of in het onderwijs. Hiervoor waren nieuwe kledingvormen vereist. En deze werden gevonden in de garderobe van de man.
Dat was niet nieuw, veel bemiddelde vrouwen beoefenden al langer de paardensport. De amazonekleding had al veel mannelijke elementen. De opdeling van het kostuum in een jasje met een rok, een voorloper van het mantelpak, was afgeleid van het mannenkostuum. Het was gemaakt van stevige wollen stof, die ook voor mannenkleding werd gebruikt. Vaak werden deze amazonekostuums dan ook bij de mannenkleermaker gemaakt.
Bestand: Gracieuse – mei 1900 
Verwijzing: Gracieuse. Geïllustreerde Aglaja, 
5 mei 1900, Gemeentemuseum Den Haag 
Voor het paardrijden en vanaf 1870 ook voor het fietsen was een rok geen geschikt kledingstuk. Er werd dan ook gezocht naar broek-achtige oplossingen. Echter het idee van een vrouw met gespreide benen was ondenkbaar: het toppunt van onfatsoen. Voordat vrouwen de broek, tot dan toe aan mannen voorbehouden, veroverden waren er veel krampachtige en onhandige tussenvormen.
Een mooi voorbeeld is een fietskostuum uit de collectie van Museum Rotterdam van omstreeks 1900. Dit kostuum bestaat uit een kostuumjasje met lange panden en een tweedelige rok met splitten voor en achter. Er is een knoopsysteem zodat de panden als broekspijpen om de benen kunnen worden geknoopt. Op de fiets was dat gemakkelijk, naast de fiets kon de dame zich weer fatsoeneren: de broek werd dan omgeknoopt tot rok. Het lange jasje viel achter tot over het zadel, het aanstootgevende beeld van de gespreide benen was zo aan het oog onttrokken. Saillant detail is dat het jasje ter hoogte van de boezem flink is opgevuld.
Veel minder ingewikkeld was het mantelpak. Dit had haar oorsprong in Engeland rond 1870, waar de kleermaker John Redfern ze voor de sportieve bezigheden van zijn rijke clientèle vervaardigde. De combinatie van jasje, blouse en rok was zo praktisch, niet alleen voor sport, dat ze al snel ook in Europa werden gedragen. De blouse, afgeleid van het herenhemd werd vaak gedragen met een dasje, op het hoofd een matelot, ook al van de andere sekse ‘gepikt’.
Het mantelpak werd ook populair bij minder bemiddelde vrouwen omdat het geschikt was om in uit werken te gaan en er elke dag netjes uit te zien. Daarvoor hoefde je alleen de blouse te wisselen.
De mix van mannelijke en vrouwelijke elementen van het vroege mantelpak is spannend. Door de snit werd het vrouwenlichaam (boezem, taille, heupen, billen) benadrukt en de mannelijke elementen maakten het tegelijkertijd streng. Het is precies deze spanning die tot op de dag van vandaag intrigeert.

Bestand: Gracieuse – maart 1899 
Verwijzing: Gracieuse. Geïllustreerde Aglaja, 
1 maart 1899, Gemeentemuseum Den Haag
Modemuze verbindt op een online platform de mode- en kostuumcollecties van zeven Nederlandse musea met verhalen van mode- en kostuumliefhebbers als een bron van inspiratie voor een breed publiek. In samenwerking met FASHIONCLASH Festival komt Modemuze de hele maand juni met een serie blogs rondom het thema van dit jaar: ‘Gender’. 
Neem voor een overzicht van alle blogs een kijkje op: modemuze


Tabula Rasa - dance performance

Tabula Rasa, a dance performance during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

June 14 - 18:30 at SAMdecorfabriek
Online pre-sale: 10 euro
Door- sale: 12,50 euro

Tickets are available: here

You want to see the FASHIONCLASH Festival campaign and the theme of gender come to live than you got to see Tabula Rasa.

Project Sally Maastricht, FASHIONCLASH and designer Mieke Kockelkorn started a partnership with the aim to provide the awareness and transcend conservative gender roles in our society and a message of freedom. In a range of workshops, transgender youngsters will work with Mieke and Project Sally to create a collection that will be reflected and with a dance performance. Tabula Rasa is a gathering of different people who clash dance and fashion with purpose to engage a dialogue with the society.

Choreography: Martin Harriague
Dancers: Morgane Michel and Patrizio Bucci.


Tabula rasa, ( Latin: “scraped tablet”— i.e., “clean slate”) in epistemology theory of knowledge) and psychology, a supposed condition that empiricists attribute to the hu- man mind before ideas have been imprinted on it by the reaction of the senses to the external world of objects.

More information about FASHIONCLASH Festival: program


left Project Sally Maastricht (photo Tycho Merlijn)
right designer Mieke Kockelkorn

zaterdag 30 mei 2015

FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 - designer Market

FASHIONCLASH Market takes place June 12 – 14, 2015 in Maastricht. 

Thirty-four promising young designers from different countries will participate and present their unique products, including clothing, shoes, jewelleries and accessories at the Market. MAFAD academy will also occupy part of the market, as well as PUP magazine.

It’s free for anyone to enter the market. FASHIONCLASH wants to offer a chance for visitors to browse around and buy these fascinating items. The price will range from 15 Euros to 1000 Euros. Please note that all the purchases will only be made with CASH.

The detailed information about the designers and their brands can be found here.
You can also find interviews with designers here.

Time schedule: 
12 June: 7:00 p.m. – 23:30 a.m. (Opening)
13 June: 5:00 p.m. – 22:00 a.m.
14 June: 1:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.

NOTE: 
* Free entrance
* Cash only

Location:
SAMdecorfabriek, Meerssenerweg 215

market 2014

market 2014

market 2014

FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 at Museum aan het Vrijthof

IAEA 
Studio Ikkai, IAEA is a een cooperation project between Studio IKKAI
and product designer  Michal Avraham.
Museum aan het Vrijthof is once again one of the locations during FASHIONCLASH Festival Side Program.
June 6 - 14

The MahV will present several gender related installations by young theatrical performers, designers and artists: Lisa Schamlé, Malou Beemer & Eef Lubbers, IAEA, Luca Tichelman and Hean Kim.
MIJNshop/MIJNcollectie project is also on display at the museum.

On June 14 you can meet the participants from 12am - 1 pm at the museum.

To visit this Museum aan het Vrijthof you need a ticket.

Adults   € 8
Childeren to age 6 free
Childeren 7 - 12 € 2
Teenagers 13 - 18 € 4
Students € 4
Groups (from 15 p.) € 6,50 Museum friends  free
Museumcard* free

http://www.museumaanhetvrijthof.nl

Side Program is an accompanying program spread across various locations in Maastricht with pop-up stores, exhibitions, lectures and events in selected boutiques and cultural spots in Maastricht. Most of the locations are accessible for free and open for public during the opening times indicated by the locations. In some locations, you need a ticket, they will be provided by the venue. More information about Side Program: here.

vrijdag 29 mei 2015

Outspoken Designer Store at De BRANDWEERKANTINE

We invite you to get familiar with one of our Side Program events during FASHIONCLASH Festival, which will take part at one of the hotspots in Maastricht.
De BRANDWEERKANTINE is a creative melting pot and meeting place for weekly markets, great events, delicious kitchen and during FASHIONCLASH Festival you can visit the Outspoken Designer Store by Galerie Majke Hüsstege.
Outspoken Designer Store is part of contemporary art gallery Majke Hüsstege. A melting pot of fashion, design and art. A place where creative minds from various directions come together. The design store that offers you a broad and regularly updated collection of contemporary design products in fashion, lifestyle, interior, accessories and jewellery. The collection consists of unique and limited edition design items, next to products from design labels. The store is showcasing over 60 talented designers, all of whom have one commonality: their high quality designs.
At the De BRANDWEERKANTINE  you will find the Outspoken designer pop-up store on Saturday 13 and Sunday 14 June.

If you want to plan your shopping visit the official website of the Outspoken Designer Store here.
To find out more about the Side Program click here.

Saturday June 13 : 10 am - 6  pm
Sunday June 14:    12 am - 6 pm

* Saturday June 13: Streekmarkt Pura Loca

De BRANDWEERKANTINE is located at Capucijnenstraat 21



De BRANDWEERKANTINE



donderdag 28 mei 2015

Sofie van Aelbroeck at Coffeelovers Maastricht

Officially FASHIONCLASH Festival takes place from June 11 to 14, but already from June 1, FASHIONCLASH fever will start invading Maastricht with the Side Program events.
Belgian artist and designer Sofie van Aelbroeck will exhibit her work at Coffeelovers at plein 1992.

In addition Sofie is also one of the participants in the Gender-expo at the SAMdecorfabriek from June 12 - 14.

But when you get you coffee at Coffeelovers don't forget to take a look at the installation by Sofie van Aelbroeck.

http://www.sofievanaelbroeck.com

More about the Side Program: here















One Wolf at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Today we are introducing the brand One Wolf, based in Riga, Latvia.
Agnese Narnicka is the designer for One Wolf. She has been a clothing designer for 9 years. Agnese Narnicka already started her professional career when she was still studying at the Art Academy of Latvia. This year, she will introduce her UNIFORM collection of the brand One Wolf at the designer market of FASHIONCLASH Festival in June. Be ready to meet her there!

http://www.onewolf.lv/

Q&A with designer Agnese Narnicka:

How would you describe your work? 
My approach to fashion design is very individual. The initial period, when the idea appears, is very instinctive and spontaneous. The idea is actualised in the first fashion illustrations, reflecting not only the clothing but also its actual character. I enjoy creating collections that have a concept based on a specific story. When I have an idea for this story and the hero of the story is known, I would start some more extensive works of research and look for more detailed sources for inspiration. After that comes the final sketches, fabric selection, technical drawings of the pieces, ideas for possible treatments of the fabric, constructions, and the sewing of examples.

Have you shown your collections before? If so, where? 
One Wolf regularly presents its collections to a broader public both locally and internationally. In Latvia, we show our collections at Riga Fashion Week. Internationally, we have participated in the "Who's next" show in Paris, the "Bread and Butter" show, the "Projektgallery" showroom, and Berlin's Fashion Week. What’s more, we have also presented ourselves in Japan and Great Britain. And, last year's "Repair" collection was also presented in the prestigious 29th International Festival of Fashion and Photography in Hyères, France.

woensdag 27 mei 2015

A VINTAGE AFFAIR - Wyck Maastricht

“A VINTAGE AFFAIR”
 Second hand x Vintage Fair

 Sunday 14th June 12.00h – 17.00h
 Rechtstraat | Wycker Brugstraat
 Wyck Maastricht

Wyck Maastricht invites you to the Vintage Fashion Fair on 14th of June, during FASHIONCLASH Festival.
Participate yourself and clean up your wardrobes or come stroll our cosy neighbourhood and enjoy the atmosphere that will be just a little different than usual…
Want to join A VINTAGE AFFAIR ? Visit www.madeinwyck.com, fill in the registration form and you’re almost there !

An initiative by Wyck is Hip! https://www.facebook.com/wyckiship

KAROLINA SIARKOWICZ at FASHIONCLASH Exhibition 2015

Today we would like to introduce to our FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 Exhibition participant - Karolina Siarkowicz. Karolina lives in Warsaw, Poland and except being fashion design intern and student, she does great illustrations. In June, she will expose her gender-focused drawings, named "GENDER? TAKE HOMOS AWAY FROM ME" which depict the extreme visions on the term 'gender' in polish society.

Get to know Karolina by reading our short interview with her.


How would you define fashion? 
For me the meaning of word fashion changes with every new experience in this industry. Sometimes I don’t want to continue my fashion work anymore, and sometimes I am able to sacrifice a lot for it. I think that the experience is hugely influence by the people you are surrounded with. Currently I am in a group of designers and artists, who are creating from the heart. Fashion is still some kind of riddle for me – I treat it like CSI: Miami, Crime Scene Investigation: Miami. I believe, that there will be still many moments in my life, when I will be fed up with fashion industry, but if someone steped in fashion once, it is nearly impossible to leave it behind.


What does your collection try to communicate (what is about)?
My illustrations show the visions of my friends on gender. Before I started working on the pieces I have been collecting their interpretations and illustrated them. To be honest, it was very difficult for me to interpret the modern concept of the word "gender", which now has many meanings. In my country, the word gender has been demonized by the media and above all by the church as Poland is a country with strong believer it got very negative connotation. In my illustrations I got inspired by music video of Perfume Genius “Queen”, refereed to the ancient mythology, equality in fashion and old photography of transvestite, which my friend shared with me.

How did you find out about FASHIONCLASH?
I found out about FASHIONCLASH through FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland. My friend from the Netherlands encouraged me to move forward and make a step by participating at the festival.

dinsdag 26 mei 2015

“Gendercodes in fashion throughout the 20th century”

Paul Smith (1946)
Pop-up expo by Modemuseum Hasselt & Bonnefantenmuseum
during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 

03.06.2015 - 14.06.2015

Fashion is considered to be an important medium for individual self expression, as well as for the genderrelated aspects of this indentity. It's traditionally split into womens- and mensfashion, but because of its expressive character, fashion has become a platform for breaking down conventional social roles. Additionally, the fashionchoices of gender variant people illustrate that biological sex is a relative concept in fashion. Furthermore, the fashion world adapted this crossgender approach as a strategy causing the cross-fertilization of men's and women's clothing to grow more and more apparent throughout the recent years. Since the arrival of genderneutral clothing the ends of the genderspectrum have gotten explicitly entangled. People now have complete freedom of choice to express themselves how and as who they want.
FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 wants to celebrate self expression. That's why they collaborated with Modemuseum Hasselt and Bonnefantenmuseum Maastricht to set up this pop-up exhibition as an element of their gender program. The expo travels through the costume and fashion history of the 20th century to show that gender has always been a precondition for fashion design and that fashion has always played a role in gender fluidity.

http://www.bonnefanten.nl
http://www.modemuseumhasselt.be

Origins – Passion and Belief 2015

FASHIONCLASH stand with design of Yojiro Kake
FASHIONCLASH at Origins – Passion and Belief: “sharing a goal but walking different paths”
by Maxime Van der Aa (contributing author)

From the 14th until the 18th of May FASHIONCLASH found itself in the historic centre of fashion design and textile manufacturing. Venice and its surrounding area is famous around the globe for its garment expertise and tailoring knowledge. It has enjoyed this contemporary distinction since its heyday and is still prominently visible. Even though production units of large capitalistic conglomerates have moved to countries harbouring cheaper labour in order to maximise profit. A process which has forced these authentic, artisan companies into decline. They still maintain their work ethic and philosophy under harsh economic circumstances. Withstanding the urge to fold and take advantage of the current situation to legitimize a relinquishment or abandonment of personal values is in our opinion remarkable indeed.
Fiera di Vincenza in collaboration with NJAL tried to fan the flames and pioneer in trying to stimulate international partnerships spawning mutual benefits. Italian fashion production and manufacturing businesses were buoyed by the opportunity to meet a fresh, progressive generation. Lively young designers were in turn awed by the potential to strike fruitful business affiliations.


With the current economic climate moving towards 'Slow Fashion', NJAL brought together a hundred young designers who all share a passion. A passion in design. A passion that structures their reality and symbolizes the charismatic, energetic aura that defines them. The chosen designers were active in all disciplines ranging from stone to textile and beyond. From NJAL's perspective these designers represent the new creative generation. A generation which has subversive and transgressive potential. A generation which, when forming a collective, can undermine the hegemony of large fashion corporates and make their voice heard above all the obscuring noise. However this notion doesn't imply that these conglomerates will cease to exist. It merely intensifies the influence of the visionary youthful. NJAL's aspiration is to help these young, dynamic and inspirational designers to achieve their ambition. Find their feet and confirm their existence in the current cut-throat fashion world. An ambition which FASHIONCLASH shares but tries to realize using their own innovative interdisciplinary platform. In other words: we share the same dream but walk different paths. Where NJAL focusses on economic sustainability. FASHIONCLASH safeguards the artistic integrity each fashion designer, in the broadest sense of the word, has. Being able to showcase a collection based on conceptual inspiration without having to think about profit.

Origins itself was divided in several segments: Leather, Stone, Textile and Technology. Furthermore OPB invited 20 institutions such FASHIONCLASH, Fashion Forward Dubai, Belgrade Fashion Week Design Collective, Esmod Berlin, Worth Project, Doing Fashion and Maisons de Mode.
FASHIONCLASH met interesting and inspirational characters in each of these prodigious sections. We witnessed admirable design aesthetics, unbelievably revolutionary cloth and material choices, stunning embroideries, marvellous patterns and incredible sculpturing of form. We were fascinated by the perseverance and motivation these young designers embody. An embodiment that articulates itself in their fascinating designs.
Doing Fashion from Basel
One could ask oneself the question why FASHIONCLASH as autonomous organisation focussing on fashion as art had any reason to be at Origins. I will therefore end this article by clarifying our impetus and incentive. First of all we wanted to create more brand-awareness about FASHIONCLASH Festival as a brand. A cultural brand which epitomizes an interdisciplinary and international platform that showcases future artistic design talent, whether their collections are wearable or not. We believe fashion can change society. Not only serve as a reflection of cultural norms or solely exists to stimulate consumption. We therefore want to help and incentivize young designers to aid this transformation by creating artefactual fashion. Next to that we also realize that fashion is inextricably linked with economy. In order to survive, one has to sell. To achieve this our platform also hosts a market and a 'Meet the Industry' project. This brings us to our second aim. At Origins we met some very interesting potential collaborative partners that we believe can not only help us to achieve our dream but are also well placed to help the young designers we curated to achieve theirs.
Petra Ptackova
Ultimately, FASHIONCLASH at Origins was a joyous occasion. A weekend in which we had the chance to meet enthousiastic designers and which inspired us to keep doing what we're doing. Broadening our horizons and enriching our knowledge of what is needed to become even more constructive for young designers and for fashion in general.

Flora Miranda, winner ar Mittelmoda Award 2015
Among Origins – Passion and Belief 2015 we met several FASHIONCLASH designers and some of them competed at the Mittelmoda The Fashion Award 2015 that was held under the same roof of Fiera di Vincenza. Flora Miranda won the OPB Technology prize and Peter Movrin won one of the main awards. One of the finalists was the Swiss designer Rafael Kouto, one of the FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 designers.

http://www.originfair.com/








Rafael Kouto

























Impressions from Origins – Passion and Belief 2015. all images by FASHIONCLASH

Mies Nobis at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Today we are introducing the designer Millicent Nobis and her own jewellery brand Mies Nobis.
Millicent Nobis comes from Katoomba, a small town in Australia, and now she is based in Berlin, Germany.
This year she will participate at the designer market of FASHIONCLASH Festival again!

http://www.miesnobis.com/

Q&A with designer Millicent Nobis:

How would you describe your work?
 
A fascination with modern minimalism and tribal jewellery made of horn & bone.

What is your technique?
Hand made pieces in brass & silver, hand carved horn or wood.

What is your most name worthy achievement up to now in relation to fashion? 
Being selected by the Vogue Italy to be part of last years Dubai Mall talent showcase, and meeting guests like Franca Sozzani, Karolina Kurkova & Lily Cole was pretty exciting.

Who are your artistic influences or inspirations? Why? 
I love the work of German art jewellery Karl Fritsch’s. His use of precious materials is irreverent and exciting.

zondag 24 mei 2015

FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 - Preview

FASHIONCLASH Festival countdown has started. In just three weeks FASHIONCLASH will take over Maastricht with the 7th edition of the international clash of talent, cultures and disciplines.
On Saturday May 23, audience got the opportunity to already experience the 'FASHIONCLASH' festival vibe with a preview performance. Bureau Europa invited FASHIONCLASH to organize a preview in a creative hub to be. The afternoon started with a lecture at Bureau Europa by Floor Nijdeken, that followed up with a conversation with Branko Popovic.
After that the audience was guided to Vredestein, former Lab building at the industrial Bosscherveld
area in Maastricht. We invited Lotte Milder to develop a performance where where FASHIONCLASH philosophy clashes with theatre performance and urban heritage and development. Furthermore gender roles where reversed. Models were wearing pieces from collection that will premiere during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 (June 11-14).
Featured designers were: Yojiro Kake, Joelle Boers, Sofya Samareva, Branko Popovic, Marlou Breuls, BLANK ETIQUETTE, Carlotaoms, Hana Frisonsova, Věra Vtípilová, Jivika Biervliet, Simeon Morris, Flora Miranda, Lotte Milder and Hermione Flynn.

The performance was create by theater performer Lotte Milder, Karlijn Milder, Mats Logen and Tjeerd van Heerdt. Dominque Cordaro and Bas Aarts were responsible for the hair and make-up.

donderdag 21 mei 2015

MPA Collective at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

MPA Collective: a jewellery brand created by Maryvonne Wellen, Phylicia Gilijamse, and Anne Achenbach.

They met each other in Düsseldorf in 2007, during their studies of Applied Arts and Design. After graduation, they moved to different cities to continue their studies – London, Düsseldorf, and Munich. Though not in the same place geographically, they have maintained a strong connection on a personal as well as professional level. With the help of Skype, they are still able to discuss their designs, processes, and thoughts as a group while sitting in front of computers. Therefore, in the fall of 2014, they decided to team up and initiated the jewellery collective MPA. This year they will present their jewellery at the designer market at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015. Be ready to buy their products then!

http://mpa-collective.com/

Q&A with designers:

How would you describe your work? What is your technique?
The jewellery of MPA can be defined by its clean graphic lines and strong volumes with little to no ornamentation. The designs are minimalistic and pure, yet unexpectedly inventive with functional details. MPA's designs express quiet female strength and confidence, without being demanding or extravagant. Great attention is paid to material expression. Instead of choosing for high glossy materials bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants are executed in non-precious metals, polymers and wood, surfaces are textured, matte and have a reduced color palette. We have a similar approach to designing but each individual MPA member has their own approach that can be recognized in the pieces. The three of us use a broad range of techniques to produce a large variety of wearable jewellery. We blend traditional goldsmithing methods with the latest techniques, like 3D printing.

FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015


 Trailer credits: video by Strictua, photography: Lonneke van der Palen / graphic design: Noto / make-up: Pebbles Gravee at M.A.C Cosmetics / hair: Kelly Derks at KEVIN MURPHY / costume: Mieke Kockelkorn / model: Merel Visschedijk

woensdag 20 mei 2015

Joelle Boers at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Get to know JOELLE BOERS, who comes from the little Dutch town Geleen near Maastricht. After her studies in Graphic Design and Photography, she desired to explore the world of Fashion and Textile Design at MAFAD (Maastricht Academy Fine Arts and Design).
She has been involved in many FASHIONCLASH events and projects.
Joelle will present her debut, self-designed collection at FASHIONCLASH Festival Show Program and purchase her designs at the designer Market.
In addition she takes part at Designers in Store within festival's Side Program, her work will be presented and sold at Stijl Maastricht boutique.

dinsdag 19 mei 2015

Fashion Maastricht goes online

Maastricht reveals Fashion Maastricht website and campaign.
FASHIONCLASH designer Linda Friesen was invited to design the campaign dress.

Maastricht is a small pittoresque town worth visiting for many reasons: food, relaxation, craftsmanship, quality, elegance etc. But also for fashion and lifestyle. Last year the city started to develop a policy around fashion, 'Fashion Maastricht'.
The aim is to promote Maastricht as a fashion destination for shopping, a town with emerging creative industry but also where you can discover fashion talent.

FASHIONCLASH, the most important fashion initiative is a major partner in this project, providing international exposure and trendsetting events.

The website features latest fashion news that are happening in Maastricht and around and includes also a section where you can discover Maastricht linked fashion makers. Many of the makers are FASHIONCLASH designers and partners.

http://www.fashionmaastricht.nl/

Concept / Image: Bureau Caramel / Rob Truijen
Dress Creation: Linda Friesen | Video: Strictua

maandag 18 mei 2015

Luca Szymkowiak at Marres during FASHIONCLASH Festival

Luca Szymkowiak performance and video installation at Marres during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 

The FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 is happening in less than one month. Next to the main program including fashion shows, exhibition and market in the SAMdecorfabriek, you can enjoy various pop-up-stores, performances, talks and exhibitions.

Performance artist Luca Szymkowiak presents her two-fold graduation piece during FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015.
 The piece consists of a video installation - What are they doon here? - and a live performance - In the Milky Ways of eternity. 
What are they doon here? and In the Milky Ways of eternity question gravity and identity. Luca clearly remembers her first encounter with the nature of the galaxy. When walking in the woods with a friend after a geography lesson, she realised the concept ‘galaxy’ created an inconceivable vacuum in her brain. Its elusive nature became a trigger to strip all concepts of their premises and to start shaping the formless. In her most recent piece, Luca proposes a new definition for nothing.

Concept: Luca Szymkowiak
Costumes, video: Luca Szymkowiak
Construction: Luca Szymkowiak + Trimet Sound: Jimi Zoet
Both pieces are performed by Urland: Ludwig Bindervoet, Marijn de Jong, Thomas Dudkiewicz, Jimi Zoet (www.urland.nl) 
Thanks to Stichting FASHIONCLASH, Stichting Edmond Hustinx, Trimet, Hannah De Meyer, Peter Missotten and many others.
Luca Szymkowiak is graduating student from Toneelacademie Maastricht (Theatre academy Maastricht)

dinsdag 12 mei 2015

SCIUMÉ at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Today we are introducing Valentina Sciumé: an Italian designer, now based in Milan. She has been a designer for more than ten years. Her overwhelming passion for fashion, combined with her multiple job experiences, leaded her to launch her own brand of accessories, SCIUMÉ, two years ago. This year she will participate at designer market at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015. Get ready to meet her and her collections by then!

http://www.sciumeaccessori.com/it/

Q&A with designer Valentina Sciumé:

How would you describe your work? 
I think it's one of the most creative and dynamic jobs. It involves both precision and techniques, not only creativity. Before starting every new collection, I always do lots of research about the theme, new materials, and colors that I might use. When my ideas are clear enough, I start designing the technical part. And then after a meeting with suppliers, I make the first prototypes. Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity? I look for creativity through my travels and landscapes. But creativity always occurs to me suddenly at an unknown moment. I need to see new things, walk and be aware of the details of the cities where I stay. Sometimes, even a building can trigger my new ideas. That’s what stimulates my creativity from time to time.

donderdag 7 mei 2015

JIVIKA BIERVLiET at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015



We love, when participants from past editions of our festival are comming back - we can observe them developing, progressing and changing. Today we introduce you to Jivika Biervliet, who will participate already 4th time at FASIHONCLASH Festival! This time Jivika will collaborate Peter Hsieh, while the results of this work will be presented at FASHIONCLASH Festival Show case.



Who are you?
 My Name is Jivika Biervliet, I'm a menswear designer.

Where do you come from?
My parents are from Surinam, I was born in Nijmegen (NL) and live in Arnhem. In 2010 I graduated in Fashion communication at the HKU.

Where are you based? How long have you been designing clothing?
I'm based in a nice small studio in the center of Arnhem where everything is being made. I started designing clothing just a few months before I started with my study in 2005, I had no idea of what I was doing haha.

How would you describe your work?
My work is always very personal. It starts with a feeling which grows into a concept. I always try to let my collections speak for itself. The collections are build-up of showpieces and minimalistic ready to wear items. I especially love to work with unusual materials. My designs are conceptual, experimental, clean and wearable at the same time.

What is your technique? 
Becoming my concept. Look, walk & talk like my concept. And I also need be alone so I can travel back to my own planet.

Have you shown your collections before, if so, where?
Yes I have shown my collections among others during previous editions of FASHIONCLASH, Amsterdam Fashion Week and FashionPhilosophy Fashion Week Poland & Cologne Fashion Days on behalf of FASHIONCLASH.

What do you aspire to be? 
Forever young.




What is your most name worthy achievement up to now in relation to fashion? 
The chances to collaborate with other great inspiring artist like accessory designer Peter Hsieh, visual artist Niek Pulles and choreographer Jasper van Luijk.

Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why? 
Hip-hop culture, dancers, artists like MJ, and for this collection E.T. the Extra Terrestrial was a main influencer. The collection which I will show during FASHIONCLASH Festival in June is inspired by the feeling of being alienated from this world. It's about authenticity and the longing to escape, it's about being yourself.

Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)? 
I use my intuition.


"To me fashion is about sharing feelings, having fun and sharing your world. As a child I always dreamed of having my own planet with a rollercoaster in my backyard. Though fashion I can build that backyard."




What was the most important thing your parents taught you, that you now bring into your work? 
Never forget where you come from

Have you recently experienced something that totally blew your mind? 
My little 8 month old nephew Vince James smiling at me.

Which item in your wardrobe really typifies you and why? 
My XXXL black coat which makes me look even more shorter. I'm 1.56m tall. Regularly people tell me that I'm small, but I don't feel small at all.

What is your most favorite accessory and why? 
My Surinamese pendant (ogri ai) which protects me, I can't remember when I was not wearing it.

What is your most favorite brand and why?
Henrik Vibskov because of his insane installations and every show that I fell in love with. He's a genius. The same goes for Craig Green, I especially love his designs.

Are you a people's person or a loner? 
Both. I can get so much energy of partying and laughing with my friends or meeting new people. But I also love to be on my own, be on my own planet, get back into my own world, to feel what I feel.


What do you strive for in your work?
Inspire people with my vision.

What are the key factors in your designs? 
Humor, outspoken materials, conceptual & clean silhouettes.

What makes your items different from others (What is your designing philosophy)?
I believe that it is unnecessary to work with boundaries in menswear.

Fashion needs to progress year in year out, how do you keep innovating? 
Listen to my intuition and especially stay true to how I feel and see things.

What is the contemporary condition of fashion in your place of residence?
In Arnhem you find the most interesting fashion on the streets. In my opinion it's the coolest thing if people wear what they like and where they feel good in, whether it looks good or not. It expresses a personality.

What is your ultimate goal? What do you want to achieve with your projects? 
Creating more opportunity’s to share my work. I hope to have more projects with dancers and other creatives. I love collaborations, it's so inspiring to bring more forces together. And I would love to see people on the streets wearing my designs.

What are your views on gender categorization in fashion? (as in differentiating between male/female collections, is this necessary?) 
I don’t think it’s necessary because I believe that the strict boundaries which you see in men’s fashion are unnecessary. I believe it’s more interesting if you can view it in the way you want.

Do you believe the western binary gender system (male/female) will eventually disappear? 
The western binary gender system may not disappear, but I hope that there will be more equality and acceptation in the differences between gender and races.

What are your thoughts on the idea that unisex is the new androgynous in fashion? 
I think it's really cool. The differences between men and women are getting smaller and smaller, also in the way of living. My collections also contains a lot of items which are suitable for women, and it’s really surprising how stylists use my work on female models, sometimes I can’t even recognize the pieces.

What does your collection try to communicate (what is about)? 
My collection is inspired by the feeling of being alienated from this world It’s about authenticity and escapism, it’s about being yourself.




Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH? 
I already participated 3 times before. I did a catwalk show, an exhibition and last year we showed a dance performance on the runway. I especially love the positive relaxed vibe during FASHIONCLASH Festival, and working with the nice people who organise it.

What has changed/happened since your last attendance at FASHIONCLASH?
FASHIONCLASH Festival offered me the opportunity to show and expose my work during the Cologne Fashion Days. It was so much fun and I would never had missed this, I’m really thankful for every opportunity they have created for me. The distinguished dreams dance project they approached me for was also an amazing thing, I hope to do more of these projects in the future.

maandag 4 mei 2015

PAVILJONS at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Meet Liga Garda: a fashion designer based in Riga, Latvia.

Liga Garda joined PAVILJONS, a fashion and lifestyle concept store based in Riga, after she finished her study in fashion design at Teko Design and Business, VIA University College in Denmark. She has created two collections under PAVILJONS label for now. She will participate at the designer market of FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015. Be ready to buy her clothes by then!


Q&A with designer Liga Garda:

How would you describe your work? What is your unique technique?
As PAVILJONS is based in the North, we always try to emphasize the need to dress appropriately for the climate. Therefore, we offer clothing suitable for harsh and cold weather conditions. It was obvious for our ancestors to create clothing which was durable, warm and waterproof and on the top of that all materials were natural. With this in mind, our own vision is to find contemporary Latvian design identity by using the techniques and traditional crafts of previous generations. One of these crafts that are very essential for northerners has always been knitting. Unfortunately, locally it is a dying proficiency, especially in larger scale, such as mass production, which would improve the economics and generally give benefit. Though most of the older people still know how to knit, the problem can reach us along with the younger generations. Therefore, we feel responsible for keeping this craft alive and appealing. Because of this urge for keeping the traditions alive, our collections contain mostly knitted garments and waterproof outerwear. We see ourselves as the keepers of this almost lost art.

Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity?
During the process of design, the biggest problem for me is that I get influenced too much by others and lose my own thoughts and opinions. Because of that, I would lose the focus, get confused, and lose track of my initial idea. Therefore, it is important for me to put aside other people’s opinions on what is ok and what is not during the designing process. It would always help to take a good look onto what are the things you really want to express and what is the meaning of your work. And then, just follow this idea step by step, keeping the track of your goals. I believe that all the creativity in the world hides behind the purpose of our work and lives. If you have a higher goal of your work, it becomes your inspirational source and all the creativity is just the natural need to express your belief and opinion.

What is your most favorite brand? Why? 
I love Yohji Yamamoto because of his old wisdom and longstanding vision on contemporary fashion. He is like the Gandalf of fashion industry.



"Fashion is a form of art which gives us the opportunity to express our personalities or to re-create ourselves whichever is necessary. "


What do you strive for in your work?
I want to improve the perception of how the world sees Latvian design. At the moment, the Latvian design is barely distinguished at all, but the change has already started and I want to be a part of it. Other than that, PAVILJONS strives for equality in any forms as well as the social responsibility.

What are the key factors in your design? 
Our design is produced by using the local recourses and manpower. We strive for leaving as little mess as possible after ourselves. Using high quality raw materials for knits with very little synthetic fibres added gives us the warmest and most viable result possible. For other garments, we choose to use durable, warm, low maintenance or water resistant materials. In other words, our designs are functional, comfortable and made accordingly to Northern climate inhabitant needs.

What makes your items different from others? What is your designing philosophy? 
Our designs are produced here in Latvia, no further than 30 km from our headquarters. This of course affects the prices and production quantities, but we try to keep the prices accessible for locals. We don’t see the point of having local brand if it is out of reach for the people around us. Though it is not that easy to stand strong against the mass production companies and not get lost in this enormous ocean of low cost products that keep the customer stunned and wanting it all. So we have to be different to survive and the path we have chosen is to offer the product which is manufactured with social consciousness as well as the thought of improving economics. We are happy that we get to give people jobs and keep the economy going, which is a huge deal for such a small country. Slowly but gradually people start to realise how damaging our buying behaviour has been so far. We begin to realise the value of clothing and design. As soon as we get the gasp of the idea that when we buy high quality product with higher value and durability, we get a companion for many seasons. It is important not to overthink the fashion that much. We don’t need that many clothing pieces to be stylish or whatever. High quality basics that distinguish our taste, personality and fashion sense would do just fine. We need to stick to what we like and stop wearing anything that is offered. Only that way we will finally be at peace and all the ecological mess behind this industry will start to decrease and the world will heal.

Fashion needs to progress year in year out, how do you keep innovating? 
Personally I think that this part is a bit crazy, but at the same time that’s one of the things that I love in this profession. It never lets you rest and get lazy. You must stay focused and keep your mind in working mode all the time. When you have thoughts, opinions and opposition in your mind, it naturally generates thoughts, draws conclusions and plants ideas. Some of these ideas are innovative and valid so they come to life. This is the only way for me to get genuine and authentic ideas. By using my mind, by making it sweat. In order to get something out of yourself, you must put some information in as well. That’s how our mind works. If we don’t find anything that triggers our mind or gives meaning to our work, it will end up stealing the ideas from somebody else. So my idea is that I should not let my mind wander and get bored and loose. It must be fit and entertained to generate ideas with value.

What is the contemporary condition of fashion in your place of residence? 
Contemporary fashion is at its start position. Everything connected to fashion is quite new; we don’t have any old fashion houses that go way back or large production factories still running. We used to have a quite strong fashion businesses running while we were part of Soviet Union, but with the independence and all the economical errors we could not manage to get them running by ourselves. Though world does not recognize us as a fashion country yet, there is a strong potential to change that perception. We have a lot of talented designers and lots of them have a very sustainable vision. As Latvia is so small, it makes it much easier to break free and get noticed. The biggest problem is to find the funding and solvent clients to keep the business alive. The economy is still quite harsh and people cannot afford the opportunity to choose whether to buy mass production or local clothing. So local designers must look for clients outside the boarders and find a way to diverge themselves from the fashion sharks that has been around for ages. It is hard to be a newbie in this industry, but I think we are up for a challenge.



What is your ultimate goal? What do you want to achieve with your projects? 
It is important for us to do more than just create meaningless clothing pieces in order to earn. We feel responsible for keeping this business alive. We were the first ones to open up a pop-up store in Latvia. We are the first ones to launch a fashion label under store afterwards. We are sort of pioneers in some ways here. Though it is easy to start up something new, the problem starts when you want to do it in a long term. At the moment, Latvia has a very harsh environment for success. So if we manage to keep growing and evolving, it will be a huge success story. If everything goes well, this could become a great example and boost for others who want to do something of this sort here. We want to show that with hard work you can overrun any obstacles and it is possible to succeed here in Latvia without leaving for good.

What are your views on gender categorization in fashion? Is it necessary to differentiate between male and female collections? 
From the very beginning of our existence as a store or a label (does not matter) we have had difficulty dividing the sexes. We believe that we offer clothing for people and that’s it, no more divisions. I believe that the strict separation of genders or any borders for that matter in fashion will soon disappear for good. The problem I see is that most of the unisex clothing pieces are just basics from men’s wardrobe. Unisex is quite manly rather than neutral quite often. I think we should be more daring with making unisex clothing go both directions, thereof letting it also be more feminine. Why is there a term feminine or masculine at all and why they explain a gender feature rather than individuals style? Who says that men would mind trying out the comfort of a dress or the freedom of movement in skirt without judgement? I think that the future of unisex clothing hides behind everyone wearing whatever they feel like. We have manufactured way too many clothing pieces during the past century to throw away the dresses and skirts. Either we all wear them or we up-cycle them in a way that is appealing for all sexes. I think that the future of unisex clothing hides behind everyone wearing whatever they feel like.

Do you believe the western binary gender system (male/female) will eventually disappear? 
Yes, in time. There are some strong presumptions that need to be broken about how men or women should look like. It might take a bit longer in some countries, especially those with old unbreakable traditions and beliefs. However, the change of gender perception along with many other things will eventually catch up with the new generations. We are already much more liberal and look at each other much more different than the previous generations. I believe that the following generations will bring even more relaxed attitude, with the emphases on who the person is rather than the gender of him or her. As a designer, I see the future collections gettiing much more accessible for all sexes. I feel that it is our job to find a way to create various types of garments that somehow fits everyone and not to waste any resources to designing something useless. That’s quite a task. The idea behind this collection is to tell about a group of people who are very liberal, young at heart and open in mind.



"The idea behind this collection is to tell about a group of people who are very liberal, young at heart and open in mind."


What does your collection try to communicate? 
The idea behind this collection is to tell about a group of people who are very liberal, young at heart and open in mind. Therefore the name of the collection is “Generation Y”- the generation with the responsibility to chang the world’s old perceptions as well as finding new solutions to forever lingering problems. They don’t see any borders, any divisions, races or genders. They see world as well as the fashion with a dash or humour and ease. The collection is intended for both sexes, just few of the items might be viewed as rather more feminine than unisex. The collection is fresh, diverse and the clothing pieces can be swapped between the sexes and easily combined with each other. The styles are comfortable and sporty by following the idea that design must be functional. This collection is easy going and rather simple. We would like our clients to wear whatever they want. As a part of Generation Y ourselves, we feel responsible for preserving Latvian and Nordic proficiency and heritage. Though we see our traditions in a bit different light than generations before us, we still consider them extremely valuable and necessary to preserve. Therefore we put the emphasis on knitted pieces, focusing on the need to dress appropriately for our climate. We are playing with the idea of somewhat sporty, a bit quirky and street-wear-like knitwear. As a part of Generation Y ourselves, we feel responsible for preserving Latvian and Nordic proficiency and heritage.

Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH? 
We see our participation in FASHIONCLASH as a great opportunity for communicating our design and introducing our label to wider public. This is one of our first steps that we take outside boarders to announce ourselves as a fully developed and significant brand.

Who are your target consumers? How do you define them? 
Age 25-65. No gender. No status. Open air urbanists. They value functionality and are looking for wearable design rather than just a garment. The practical side of the garment plays a crucial role. Other than that, the quality matters. People love durable and long-lasting clothing pieces which accompany them for many seasons. Not forget the warm and cosy knits that help them survive the harsh weather conditions. We love our clients because we share the same values as them. And because of them we will keep designing functional, comfortable and warm clothing.

What is your price range? 
69 – 209 euros.

How do you balance between the function of the items and the appearance of them? 
At the very beginning of the design process, the appearance is secondary, as we aim for functional clothing. First, we design all the features and make sure that the garment needs to fulfil its function. And then, we embark upon the design. Though, there are times when the design idea already comes so strong that the design itself serves a purpose. This is the greatest struggle, also the most pleasant part, to find a design in which all the features, all the seams, lines and details serve a purpose. When designing, we keep in mind the rule of form following the function. If the garments function is to withstand a blizzard, the form establishes itself. The item will have a hood, preferably longer length, waterproof shell, lightweight insulation and natural lining.


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