Origins – Passion and Belief 2015

FASHIONCLASH stand with design of Yojiro Kake

FASHIONCLASH at Origins – Passion and Belief: “sharing a goal but walking different paths”
by Maxime Van der Aa (contributing author)

From the 14th until the 18th of May FASHIONCLASH found itself in the historic centre of fashion design and textile manufacturing. Venice and its surrounding area is famous around the globe for its garment expertise and tailoring knowledge. It has enjoyed this contemporary distinction since its heyday and is still prominently visible. Even though production units of large capitalistic conglomerates have moved to countries harbouring cheaper labour in order to maximise profit. A process which has forced these authentic, artisan companies into decline. They still maintain their work ethic and philosophy under harsh economic circumstances. Withstanding the urge to fold and take advantage of the current situation to legitimize a relinquishment or abandonment of personal values is in our opinion remarkable indeed.
Fiera di Vincenza in collaboration with NJAL tried to fan the flames and pioneer in trying to stimulate international partnerships spawning mutual benefits. Italian fashion production and manufacturing businesses were buoyed by the opportunity to meet a fresh, progressive generation. Lively young designers were in turn awed by the potential to strike fruitful business affiliations.

With the current economic climate moving towards 'Slow Fashion', NJAL brought together a hundred young designers who all share a passion. A passion in design. A passion that structures their reality and symbolizes the charismatic, energetic aura that defines them. The chosen designers were active in all disciplines ranging from stone to textile and beyond. From NJAL's perspective these designers represent the new creative generation. A generation which has subversive and transgressive potential. A generation which, when forming a collective, can undermine the hegemony of large fashion corporates and make their voice heard above all the obscuring noise. However this notion doesn't imply that these conglomerates will cease to exist. It merely intensifies the influence of the visionary youthful. NJAL's aspiration is to help these young, dynamic and inspirational designers to achieve their ambition. Find their feet and confirm their existence in the current cut-throat fashion world. An ambition which FASHIONCLASH shares but tries to realize using their own innovative interdisciplinary platform. In other words: we share the same dream but walk different paths. Where NJAL focusses on economic sustainability. FASHIONCLASH safeguards the artistic integrity each fashion designer, in the broadest sense of the word, has. Being able to showcase a collection based on conceptual inspiration without having to think about profit.

Origins itself was divided in several segments: Leather, Stone, Textile and Technology. Furthermore OPB invited 20 institutions such FASHIONCLASH, Fashion Forward Dubai, Belgrade Fashion Week Design Collective, Esmod Berlin, Worth Project, Doing Fashion and Maisons de Mode.
FASHIONCLASH met interesting and inspirational characters in each of these prodigious sections. We witnessed admirable design aesthetics, unbelievably revolutionary cloth and material choices, stunning embroideries, marvellous patterns and incredible sculpturing of form. We were fascinated by the perseverance and motivation these young designers embody. An embodiment that articulates itself in their fascinating designs.

Doing Fashion from Basel

One could ask oneself the question why FASHIONCLASH as autonomous organisation focussing on fashion as art had any reason to be at Origins. I will therefore end this article by clarifying our impetus and incentive. First of all we wanted to create more brand-awareness about FASHIONCLASH Festival as a brand. A cultural brand which epitomizes an interdisciplinary and international platform that showcases future artistic design talent, whether their collections are wearable or not. We believe fashion can change society. Not only serve as a reflection of cultural norms or solely exists to stimulate consumption. We therefore want to help and incentivize young designers to aid this transformation by creating artefactual fashion. Next to that we also realize that fashion is inextricably linked with economy. In order to survive, one has to sell. To achieve this our platform also hosts a market and a 'Meet the Industry' project. This brings us to our second aim. At Origins we met some very interesting potential collaborative partners that we believe can not only help us to achieve our dream but are also well placed to help the young designers we curated to achieve theirs.

Petra Ptackova

Ultimately, FASHIONCLASH at Origins was a joyous occasion. A weekend in which we had the chance to meet enthousiastic designers and which inspired us to keep doing what we're doing. Broadening our horizons and enriching our knowledge of what is needed to become even more constructive for young designers and for fashion in general.

Flora Miranda, winner ar Mittelmoda Award 2015

Among Origins – Passion and Belief 2015 we met several FASHIONCLASH designers and some of them competed at the Mittelmoda The Fashion Award 2015 that was held under the same roof of Fiera di Vincenza. Flora Miranda won the OPB Technology prize and Peter Movrin won one of the main awards. One of the finalists was the Swiss designer Rafael Kouto, one of the FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 designers.

http://www.originfair.com/

Rafael Kouto

Impressions from Origins – Passion and Belief 2015. all images by FASHIONCLASH

YOJIRO KAKE at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015

Today we introduce you to our next FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015 participant - YOJIRO KAKE. The brand consists of  Yojiro Kake from Osaka Japan and the partner Oka HuiYun Lin from Formosa in Taiwan, but currently they are based in Florence, Italy. YOJIRO KAKE has participated already last year the FASHIONCLASH Festival 2014 and they describe their work as an endless dream of kid. They seek to explore the playful methods based on menswear tailoring and the most pleasant thing is the customer understanding and enjoying the mood of their designs.

Find out more about our fashion show case, market and Side Program (SHOWPIECES, exhibition at De Bijenkorf Maastricht) participant below!


Who are your artistic influences or inspirations and why? 
The life around us, may be a story happened to some neighbor or dying plant we pass by.

Finding your own voice is difficult, where and how do you find your personal creativity (before you start designing; during the design process)?
About design, we may say itself is quite personal, and we just do and design generated from the bottom of heart, stick to it and that’s it. 

What was the most important thing your parents taught you, that you now bring into your work? 
The childhood memory of Yojiro’s father and father’s friends wearing suits.

Which item in your wardrobe really typifies you and why? 
One pair of stylish black leather boots which is broken like something else from Yojiro’s studio.

What is your most favorite accessory and why? 
A simple necklace Yojiro made with a small scissors. The most practical item he has made ever.

How would you define fashion? 
Some kind of illusion? 

Are you a people's person or a loner?
We are two loners. 

What do you strive for in your work? 
To realize our imaginations. 

What are the key factors in your design?  
The appliance of menswear patterns. 

What makes your items different from others (What is your designing philosophy)?
Inspiring errors. 

"Fashion needs to progress year in year out, how do you keep innovating? 

Keep dreaming nightmares. "

YOJIRO KAKE at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2014

What is the contemporary condition of fashion in your place of residence? 
Florence is a famous tourism spot, stylish people from all around the world. The great thing is PITTI UOMO, the most interesting menswear party only happens here in Florence which is an inspiring street show for us. 

What is your ultimate goal? What do you want to achieve with your projects? 
We have no idea about any ultimate goal except to keep realizing our thoughts gradually. 

What are your views on gender categorization in fashion ? (as in differentiating between male/female collections, is this necessary ?) 
Is not necessary only into two genders, may have unisex or others. However female/male category might be always there, like the two ends with mixtures in between. 

Pattern-making 

Do you believe the western binary gender system (male/female) will eventually disappear? 
No. 

What are your thoughts on the idea that unisex is the new androgynous in fashion ? 
Shall be interesting and practical for the market.


What has changed/happened since your last attendance at FASHIONCLASH?
We may say that we started to develop collaborations with some boutiques located in Florence Italy, it’s an inspiring progress for us. 

Why have you decided to participate at FASHIONCLASH Festival once again? 
FASHIONCLASH Festival 2014 is a great experience along with economic fee for us, the team is professional, punctual and well-­‐organized. Therefore, this time we would like to participate again also the design market, as FASHIONCLASH Festival is getting more and more ambitious and popular, we believe there we will find out more about the target and ourselves.

YORJIO KAKE Backstage at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2014

Yojiro Kake

Picture by: Ruggero Mengoni

Yojiro Kake is a Japanese designer based in Florence, Italy. His latest collection is inspired by "rain" and its effect on garments. Yojiro's collection will be presented during the closing Fashion Show on Sunday the 15th!

Hi Yojiro! What inspires you in general? 

In general, I am inspired by contemporary arts, music and films, but I mainly get my inspirations from my everyday life, as well as the emotions of people in it. Emotions and feelings are more important to me because there are difficult to explain. Using several methods, I like to “translate” those feelings into my design.

What place or city do you find inspiring?

I don’t feel too much from places or cities. I think it’s all about people; different people stimulate me and inspire me.

What is it like to be a young designer in your city/country? 

Here in Florence there aren’t many young designers around. But I’m proud to be ‘based in Florence’, though I’ve heard some negative things from young designers in Italy. However, I do believe that designers can create a trend no matter where they are based.