H O W L by Maria Glück

By Christoph Neumann

Maria Glück is from Bilbao, Spain, but lives in Berlin. She studied Fine Arts and specialized in sculpture. Eventually, she decided to follow the path of fashion. Her label H O W L by Maria Glück was founded in Berlin and offers menswear and womenswear with a sustainable approach. Her collection will be presented during the fashion shows, the Designer Market and the side program.

Hello Maria! What inspires you in general? 
Everything! Sometimes the most unexpected things. I guess that being so much of a city-neurotic, nature references always play a big role at the beginning of my collections. This is also because I have a great attraction to raw, basic and essential materials (not necessary textiles).

What place or city do you find inspiring? 
Any place, but I guess that where I live and work (Berlin) impregnates the character of how I work, and how my collections shape up. In any case, sometimes it’s a new thing that catches my eye, or a new book or city. But often it’s actually what is always there, day-to-day, which at some point gets all my attention as if I’d re-discover it.

What is it like to be a young designer in your city/country? 
I find working and creating in Berlin very interesting due to the great artistic environment and the many possibilities of interaction. It is also more affordable in terms of space compared with other big European capitals. The rhythm and the calm paths of the city also help to be creative. On the other hand, it’s quite hard to make your way in a place that is still not a fashion industry city. There are certain supports, but given the difficulty of this creative field and the high costs of it, maybe not enough yet.

Maria and her atelier

What attracts you about the FASHIONCLASH platform? 
The amazing selection of great young fashion creators as well as the idea behind it and its character. It is such a great fashion and creative platform that should not be missed by any means.

What is the concept behind your latest collection? 
Pure materials combined with ‘wood embroidery’ in designs that feature birds’ migration.

Describe you collection in three words: Minimal, Conceptual, Sustainable

Your collection is called "Nomadic Collection". What inspired you for this collection?
I went to watch birds migrate on a tour outside Berlin. I learned that birds fly away to the South not to escape from the cold but due to the lack of light. These birds’ migration images (sky prints) and the idea of total light (white) and total dark (black) shaped the collection.

Did you always want to work in the field of fashion? 
No, even if I was always attracted to it, I always neglected certain things of the industry. I was more driven to Art, particularly sculpture and video/photo. But given how I feel while working in my fashion-designs, maybe I should understand that my artistic drive was a meta-construction and I always wanted to do fashion…

Can you remember the first piece you designed? 
I remember making some pieces for my dolls when I was a kid, out of my mothers’ fabric leftovers (she is a seamstress). Then I remember making a black dress in my sculpture class at Art school.

Do you have a muse? If yes, who is it and why? 
Yes, ha ha! It is Christian Carlsen. He is not my muse in terms of “I would love to dress him”, but he is my inspiration because of our walks and challenging conversations. I guess he helps me to bring out my own concepts by discussing other concepts.

What is on your playlist when you are working? 
Very minimal Jazz. That is my favourite music to work on. Essential instruments, some trumpet, a “silence with sound” kind of thing.

Maria before a show

Who is your favourite fashion designer? 
Hard to say, I have many favourite designers that I admire for different reasons. The more I discover designers and their work, the more I broaden my admiration. This also happens with cinema directors and artists, but surely I admire more those whose work motivates me to keep on working and creating.

What is the latest thing you bought for yourself? 
A pair of sneakers of a cool Spanish young label.

What made you smile today? 
A friend dressed like a bank robber on a bicycle.

What is your definition of style? 
A personal approach on how to present ourselves to others.

What has been the greatest experience in your career so far? 
I guess doing fashion shows is a great emotional experience, and it’s a group work. They represent everything: the most exciting moments and the most terrifying ones.

What can we expect from you in the future? 
More artistic fashion shows displays; new fabrics, materials and combinations; a development on my style; artistic and group collaborations.

Pictures: Christoph Neumann, Maria Glück
Maria’s website: www.howlhowlhowl.com