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| MUKASHI MUKASHI |
MUKASHI MUKASHI by Birutė Mažeikaitė won the Fashion Makes Sense Award jury prize. The audience award went to Maastricht based knitwear label STRIKKS.
The jury, consisting of Carry Somers (founder Fashion Revolution), Desiree Kleinen (Ree projects) Jasmien Wynants (Flanders DC/Close the loop) and fashion designer Elsien Gringhuis, was unanimous about the sustainable fashion brand MUKASHI MUKASHI.
The awards have been presented on October 12 by Daan Prevoo, deputy of the Province of Limburg. Fashion Makes Sense Award is presented during Dutch Earth Week that took place from 10 -14 October 2017 for the first time.
In addition, Forza Fashion House organized a Sustainable Fashion Falk during the award ceremony. The talk, moderated by Elise Crutzen (fashion editor and writer) featured presentations by Jasmien Wynants and Carry Somers.
With ‘Fashion Makes Sense’ FASHIONCLASH wants to excite young designers, the fashion industry and the audience and create awareness about sustainability in fashion. Fashion is of upmost importance in the economy, society, art, and creativity and for each of us. But, it has a downside: the impact on the environment, the exploitation on workers and the influence on our self-esteem. What is the importance of fashion in our society and how can fashion contribute to a better world and welfare.
FASHIONCLASH has the ambition to develop ‘Fashion Makes Sense to a returning part of the yearly FASHIONCLASH Festival and it is their aim to create awareness around this topic. With an annual prize, FASHIONCLASH introduced the ‘Fashion Makes Sense’ jury award and the ‘Fashion Makes Sense audience award. A prize for a promising fashion talent, that’ll have a relevant and innovative idea on the awareness and innovation around sustainability.
Meet the 10 Finalists:
Fashion Makes Sense Award 2017 Finalists:
CHAIN. is an emerging fashion brand based in Buenos Aires, Argentina created by Lucia Chain. Guaycurú is inspired by Lucia’s grandfather and his childhood memories, from which he rebuilds his identity, using them as protection and strength. The collection mixes the sensations generated by the native landscapes of his childhood and what his stories generates in her. The knits symbolize the childhood that no longer fits in his adult body, but is worn as a jewel interwoven with his clothes. These designs are made by hand in Lucia’s little studio with natural merino wool, hand dyed with organic waste of Yerba Mate, trying to bring a little bit of ourselves in the fighting for living in a better world. Zero waste patterns, a-gender fits and sustainable production are important methods of her work and make her clothing stand the test of time.
Investigation 8 is a research for a design system founded by Karlijn Krijger. She created a design system that uses just one pattern as the foundation for an entire collection. By using this pattern, she set up an infinite amount of possibilities for creating new contemporary garments to be worn in our daily life. With an emphasis on durability, the pieces are all multifunctional and the patterns created with a zero-waste approach. Each original garment is expressed through a juxtaposition of the feminine side of Mother Earth with ancient beliefs about geometric proportions and harmony of the human body and our planet.
Judith started her own label in 2014. Three high fashion collections followed, of which two were in collaboration with shoe/product designer Chris van den Elzen. The collections where showed at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam, FASHIONCLASH Festival, Cologne Fashion Days and the Dutch Sustainable Fashion Week. She is mostly inspired by nature and architecture. This contradiction of organic and mechanic forms can be find in most of her work. Within the collections, Judith always works with a concept, a story she wants to tell to her audience, a story to create more awareness of certain subjects, like sustainability. At her own atelier, she produces items of these collections, both the showpieces and the ready to wear pieces. By working with small quantities, and hand cutting, there is not much waste or overproduction. Besides that, she also works mostly with sustainable fabrics.
Birute’s label name ‘MUKASHI MUKASHI’ is the Japanese translation for once upon a time… According to her every collection is a new story to be told. Her designs are intended to make a person feel unique, protected and powerful. Under society’s pressure people often treat fashion as something they inherited and not as something they choose by themselves. We are acting to what is told instead of choosing what we really want. This current collection is about the inner battle between wanting to be unique and wanting to fit in. She prefers to produce her own work because she truly enjoys the process of creating and it helps her to come up with unique fabric manipulations.
For Joëlle van de Pavert, this collection is a part of her journey of to be sustainable. Chapter Two is about what her biggest habit is, or actually was: collecting almost anything possible. From receipts to fabrics, magazines to make-up and shoe boxes to clothes; it is better safe to say that it was about impulsive buying, the need of having and naming it collecting. For this collection, the yearly FESTIMA masks festival in Burkina Faso inspired Joëlle. Masks have been an important part of traditional beliefs in many African cultures. Made of leaves, straw, wood and textile, the masks symbolize the worship of ancestors and spirits. They play an important role during commemorations of rites and the cycle of life.
Ridicule is a collaboration between three fashion designers. Their common curiosity for a new approach for the job as a fashion designer is what brought them together. It’s important for them to be transparent in both the design and making process They are constantly searching for innovative ways to design, by making use of what’s already there. For this collection, they used old fabrics and second-hand clothing which they used as new fabric by creating prints as a top layer, with different techniques. This way of working creates diversity and layers in the outfits but also diversity to the max in their collection. Therefor there is no consistency in the collection and every outfit has a story and its own wearing possibilities. It’s the result of an intuitive collaboration where three designers constantly improvise and react on each other as a true and open design process.
STRIKKS is a design studio creating knitted textiles for its own brand and in commission. It’s a lab for research of all possibilities in knitting and production processes. Co-creation with other designers, architects and companies is their drive. STRIKKS thinks it’s important that you are aware of their clothes and production. That’s why they are investigating a new way of making fashion: a sustainable collection in which personalization has the lead. With an interactive method, they aim to engage you in the design process and give you more freedom of choice and better fit. Tailor-made fashion, digitally knitted, on demand and on the spot. This engagement is key for creating emotional value for clothing and it leads to longer wear. STRIKKS showcased at design weeks in Eindhoven, Milan and Brussels. They exhibited in several museums, fairs and fashion shows. Their designs are published in design magazines and newspapers.
Maartje Janse, Elysanne Schuurman and Nikki Duijst are M.E.N.: a design studio of three female designers with a shared vision. Originating from a love for craft, textile and design of garments they started their research. With this research, it’s their aim to question contemporary choices being made in the fashion industry and in addition to this try propose alternatives; it’s a try out for the valuation of artistic expression and values in the fashion world. From previous research, M.E.N. distils different techniques which are workable for them in the sustainable field of fashion like using stock materials, zero waste patterns and knitting. These techniques combined with their inspiration and creative values is how they co-op with the current fashion industry. Previous partners: Reblend (recycled yarn company), MeesterOpleiding Coupeur (tailoring school, to produce locally) and Karlijne Opmeer (for bacteria dyeing). Connected labs are Waag Society & Makerversity Amsterdam
Studio Vera de Pont is a one-man company researching on-demand fashion items, based on her vision to eliminate waste materials immediately at the start of the production line. Projects include zero waste garment patterns and researching innovative fashion production techniques (mostly technology from other disciplines) that incorporates the consumer as a maker or co-creator. These projects also investigate the role of technology within local fashion production and co-creation in order to analyse the benefits this may offer to create a more collaborative and environmentally, socially and economically sustainable fashion system. Her machines and conceptual apparatus either produce fully finished garments or parts which can be assembled, opening the door for custom manufacturing of wearables and reducing the logistics costs. Still, global companies will exist alongside it. But their role will shift from primary producers or distributors to coordinators of networks.
Verena Klein moved from Germany to the Netherlands to study Fashion Design at the Maastricht Academy of Fine Arts and Design where she graduated in 2015. Right after graduating she started her business and she’s been working on her own clothing line, which focusses on 100% pure wool and linen materials, since then. It’s her aim to be as transparent as possible, both about her production as the materials she uses for her clothing. For Verena, it is from utmost importance to re-establish the appreciation for an authentic and honest clothing production. Being a dancer for over twenty-two years, she uses modern dance as a medium to express and underline the pure, free and intimate feeling of her designs.
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